Among the grapes native to North America, the only species that has a proven track record for good dry table wines is the Norton grape. Although the versions of the history of the grape do not all agree, the existence of the Norton grape has been traced back to colonial times. Today to a large extent, the production of Norton has shifted to the Midwest, where it has become known as the “cabernet” of the wine industry. At any winery I visit, I taste the Norton. It is a rich, deep ruby color and can have a myriad of flavors from dark cherry or raspberry including hints of coffee or chocolate, to a dry, spicy finish. Frequently, at Midwestern wineries, the Norton [thought by many to be the same as Cynthiana] is the top wine -- in flavor, in demand, and in price.
Slightly north of the metro St. Louis area, is the Mary Michelle Winery, begun by a group of investors from California. Trusting the soil and climate in the valley near the town of Carrollton, they set out to produce an affordable world-class wine from Illinois-grown grapes. Their Illinois Cellars label boasts a complex and flavorful Norton that sells locally for under $8. At our gathering this week, we shared a 2008 Norton and agreed that it was great for the money and stand ups well against other Nortons selling for more than twice the price. Comments made by the Wine Girls included: Full-bodied, complex, somewhat fruity, flavors of rich dark cherry, and a dry finish.
If you would like to taste this Norton, do not go to the Mary Michelle winery. There is no Tasting Room yet. Go instead to the famous Pere Marquette State Park north of Grafton, Illinois. The drive along the River Road is picturesque and on a hillside over-looking the Illinois River is the Park’s rustic Lodge. Around the corner from the main entrance to the Lodge is the Mary Michelle tasting room, offering samples of both the Mary Michelle label and the Illinois Cellars label. You can buy their wines at slightly higher prices there -- by the glass or the bottle, And, if you are hungry, these can be taken across the Grand Hall to the Pere Marquette Restaurant where they will nicely compliment several flavorful entrees. The Illinois Cellars Norton is also available in some local grocery stores.
Illinois Cellars Norton wine is a unique bargain. Other good value Norton wines can be found at Horton ($12-$15 VA), St. James ($8-15 MO), and White Oaks ($13 AL).
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